Home UpSoviet Tashkent

Much of Tashkent looks like one of those college campuses that sprang up in the United States during the 1960s—groups of boxes scattered on a lawn. In Tashkent's case, the explanation is the earthquake of April 26, 1966. Over the next three years, the city built more than 900 multistory buildings.

For more of the results, see T. Kadyrova, Tashkent, 1977.

The administrative center of the country is Lenin Square—oops! Independence Square (Mustaqillik Maydoni). Until the 1930s, it was Cathedral Square. Kadyrova describes it as "a "highly impressive spatial environment." The tower, begun in 1966 and finished in 1974 to a design by L. Adamov and others, was the Uzbek SSR Ministries Building. On the far side of the fountain is a Tiananmen-scaled plaza now bereft of its towering statue of Lenin.

The trim lines on the sides of the building faintly echo the turquoise ornament of previous centuries.

Completed in 1970, this is the Tashkent Branch of the Central Lenin Museum—oops! the State Fine Arts Museum. Like so many American buildings of the period, it's wrapped in sun-screening panels, in this case of marble.

The Exhibition Pavilion of the Artists' Union of Uzbekistan was built in 1974 and has other hints of tradition, not only in the arches but in the patterning on the walls, which is reminiscent of the old technique of covering walls with alternating glazed and bisqued tiles. It's called banai, and there's lot of it in Samarkand.

No hint of anything indigenous here: this is the pre-earthquake headquarters of the Central Committee of the Communist Party of Uzbekistan, from 1964.

The Uzbekistan Hotel, designed by L. Yershova and others and opened in 1974. This side looks over a circular park with an equestrian statue of Tamerlane. Before 1993, guests gazed down on the top of Karl Marx's head.

The city has a large stock of apartment buildings that are unmitigatedly grim, except for the ornamentation of the end walls.

Another instance, with something that looks like a spaceship at takeoff.

<Give an engineer a compass and a straightedge and—presto!—he'll give you art.

Few of the buildings allude to traditional patterns of ornament, but here's one that tries.

Another has distinctly non-traditional figurative ornament.

If you want the end walls to look good, just compare them to the long walls.